Once in awhile, I think it’s good to re-read and review stuff you’ve already read before. It’s a good way to refresh your memory and pick up things you might’ve missed the first time.
I’ve probably re-read Ansel Adams’ book The Camera at least five times, and I still learn something new each time.
So, I’ve decided to start putting together collections of previous posts that have a central theme. I know that some of you haven’t been reading PhotoNaturalist from the start, so maybe you’ve missed a few of these posts. I don’t know how often I’ll do this, but to start off, here are some of the most popular posts I’ve written on landscape photography:
#1 – Include a foreground and background in your composition
Of course, there are no strict rules about composition, but as a guideline, you may want to consider three elements that are common in great landscape photos: a foreground, background, and great light.
#2 – Remember to bring a tripod, polarizer, compass, and flashlight
The tripod is necessary to keep your camera stable during those longer shutter speeds you’ll usually need for landscape photos. The polarizing filter helps eliminate unwanted reflections and deepens the blue of the sky. A compass is useful when you’re trying to determine where the sun will set in relation to a geological formation, and since you’ll often find yourself hiking back in the dark, it’s a good idea to bring a flashlight too ๐
#3 – Don’t rely on auto white balance
Auto white balance usually works pretty well, but sometimes it’ll cause problems for landscape images. This usually happens when the majority of your photo is one color. If you shoot in RAW though, you can safely fine tune the white balance setting later in post-processing, without sacrificing any quality.
#4 – Turn on extra noise reduction for long exposures
With long exposures (anything more than a second), you’ll start to have more noise problems, so most cameras have a special noise reduction feature for these long exposures. Remember to turn it on if you’re photographing a scene in extremely low light.
#5 – When you can’t bring a tripod, improvise
Sometimes you can’t always bring a tripod with you, so in those cases you can just improvise with the objects around you: rest your camera against a large rock or lean against a tree. Anything to help you reduce camera shake will lead to sharper photos.
#6 – Use height to communicate emotion
The height of your camera in relation to the landscape will help communicate a particular emotion, so consider what you’re trying to convey with the photograph. The higher the camera, the more superior the viewer will feel over the landscape. On the other hand, if you place the camera closer to the ground, then the viewer will feel more inferior to the landscape, as if it’s conquering them.
#7 – Scout the land ahead of time
Before you go out to photograph a landscape for the first time, it’s a good idea to scout the area first by looking at a topographic map and using a program like Photographer’s Ephemeris to determine where the sun will be when it rises and sets. This way, you’ll know where that glorious light will shine during the golden hours.
#8 – Photograph the landscape at the right time
With the lighting conditions constantly changing during the golden hours, it’s important to get to your photo location well ahead of time to setup your shot and wait for that perfect moment.
#9 – Take two shots if you need extra depth of field
With some photos, you may want to include a foreground that’s very close to your camera, along with a background that’s very far. Even with a super small aperture, this will likely cause depth of field problems, so you can try taking two photos in this case: one that’s focused on the foreground and another that’s focused on the background. Then, just merge these two photos later in post-processing.
#10 – Setup your tripod carefully
This is a post I recently wrote at the Digital Photography School, about how to setup your tripod. Although the tripod seems like a pretty simple piece of equipment, there are a few things to keep in mind when you set it up to ensure you get the sharpest image possible.
#11 – Explore Flickr for inspiration
Okay, so I don’t have a blog post on this one yet, but I like prime numbers, so I wanted to make sure I had 11 tips. Anyway, one of my favorite things to do when I need inspiration is just explore photos on Flickr. Sometimes I just look through the photostreams of some of my favorite photographers (like Kevin McNeal, Ben Hattenbach, Patrick Smith, or Michael Menefee), and other times I just look at photos from my favorite locations (like the Mojave Desert or the chaparral of Southern California).
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About the Author: Steve Berardi is a naturalist, photographer, computer scientist, and founder of PhotoNaturalist. You can usually find him hiking in the beautiful mountains and deserts of Southern California.
Wayne says
There are a couple of new (to me) tips here, thanks! I particularly like your explanation in #6. I often shoot several heights and angles, but never understood the underlying reason why some look better than other. I recently subscribed to your feed and I’m enjoying your posts because I tend to photograph places and things rather than people. Thanks!
Zack Jones says
Regarding #4 do you really find that helpful? Seems with the noise reduction capabilities of LightRoom and Photoshop that this step wouldn’t be necessary. I also think in some cases it may double the exposure time so a 4 second exposure becomes an 8 second one. The first 4 seconds are for capturing the image and then the next 4 are for noise reduction. For me I disable all in-camera noise reduction and just deal with it in post.
Frank Townsley says
Hi Steve, I have found that balancing the camera on a bean-bag really can help when a tripod is not available. The advantage is you can tilt the camera on it for targeting your subject matter.
Steve Berardi says
@Wayne – Welcome to the group! Glad you’re enjoying the posts so far!
@Zack – Honestly, I haven’t done tests with and without the extra noise reduction, but based on how it works and what I know about focal plane arrays, it does make a lot of sense to me. I should definitely do some actual tests though to be sure ๐ You’re right that it basically doubles the time you have to wait (cause it takes two exposures of same length), so that’s annoying, but one shortcut is to get a perfect exposure at a high ISO and wide aperture first, and then just do the math to translate that shutter speed to your desired ISO/aperture.
@Frank – great suggestion about the bean bag!
Sarah says
Thanks for posting these great tips! I am new to landscape photography and need all the help I can get. I have been following Peter Lik’s work for inspiration, Check him out if you are not familiar: http://blog.peterlik.com/
Tiberman Sajiwan Ramyead says
I have the advantage of being a COMPLETE beginner DSLR – nothing to unlearn! The tips for me are not tips; they are lessons. But here and there things are slightly too fast for me.
I have just rediscovered the United States of America on the world map (from Mauritus here):- about being there early and start looking around etc. – beginner brothers: be there a hell of a lot earlier.
Pete Belardino says
A lot of good info here Steve ! You finally got me to order “The Camera” from Amazon !!!
Oleg Siberianman says
Steve thank you for a nice advices.
I’m a the beginning level, and still learn about proper exposure, but your advices make sense and giving a good direction.
Thank you!
and have a good photo hunting! ๐
Anthony @ Positive World Travel says
Thanks for some great tips. I am going to NT in Australia shortly and I will definitely be using these. Cheere ๐